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"It's the little touches that make the legend"

Screw for securing the knob offset piece on the M12. I have polished it with abrasive paper and steel wool, and the top is domed. It doesn't have to polished or domed BUT it looks better like that plus the rounded top is easier on the skin.

Shiny and smooth is good - especially if you want to flame blue it. Doesn't have to be blued BUT it looks good, plus blueing helps retards oxidation/ rusting.
The steel is blued by heating ....
.... and looks good against the brass side ....
... and matches that dark wood band on the side mountable knob.
Looking good ...
Feels good in the hand , and the thumb locates nicely on that dome topped screw.
Cap and screw with shoe. The shoe covers the end of the screw which traditionally is left bare, and still the case today-except for Marcou planes . The addition of the shoe neatens the appearance of this part, plus there is added friction where it is most effective-one doesn't have to tighten the cap screw very much to lock the blade down.
Cap and shoe
Cap, showing relieved area where the cross pin locates. This area immediately under the cross pin is relieved by 3° towards the rear, which allows the cap screw to be loosened slightly without the cap sliding backwards when the plane is turned over for sighting of blade projection, and neither will the cap move backwards when the adjuster screw is moving the blade to the rear.
cap reveiled
Cap screw infill-domed shape. Most of my screw or knob heads are domed, which looks more appealing than merely machining them flat or flush-which is the easiest thing to do, and takes less time.
cap srew domed
M12 knob and brass base ring. In this case an M12 knob is shown, but all Marcou knobs have base rings which are rebated 4mm deep to accept the wooden knob. This is neat but also more importantly serves to protect the end grain of the wood which otherwise may split out-a fact that Stanley planes ignored until well into their production history.
Knob brass base detail. This could merely be a straight turning on the lathe-much easier and quicker to do than a shaped turning like this one.
Knob brass
Extra detail to knob shape. A small detail with good effect on the eye.
extra detail

Observe the brass spacer on the adjuster screw between the peg and the swivel base- this ensures that the blade cannot be retracted so far back that the sharp edge sits on the ramp, plus it makes it easy to replace the blade as the peg is correctly positioned.

The scribe line helps with positioning the adjustable mouth plate- and correct orientation should the plate be removed e.g. for cleaning

The cap screw always gets a chamfer, however slight, to end off any knurling. This ''finishes" the job and feels "right" on the fingers.

Sometimes I scribe a line on the adjuster screw head-this helps when making very small adjustments.

The knurled nuts for tightening the adjustable mouth in place are chamfered at the top as usual but so are the two purpose-made brass washers , which are chamfered for so as to appear as bases for the nuts- in addition to the usual function associated with washers.

The brass swivel bed is threaded for the adjuster screw at 36tpi-and the hole gets a chamfer around the perimeter to give it the "finished" look. The end facing the handle (tote) or rear is chamfered but I usually counter bore the other end by 1.5mm and also chamfer it.
All blades that I make get chamfers on the edges so these are not harsh on the fingers when one is honing. In fact the edges are nice and clean and not left rough as on punched out blades. The two peg holes also are chamfered on the down side to facilitate placement of the blade on the peg. Veritas blades used in my planes need to have the holes chamfered as otherwise they may not seat correctly/ make contact with the brass swivel bed, and this is easily done with a pointed stone in the drill press or cordless drill.
Look at a typical bed base for the brass swiveling adjuster base - in this instance an S20A base. In order to get an effective heat blue the item must be highly polished . The hole for the brass base peg is chamfered, as are all other relevant edges. The blueing helps reduce oxidisation- and looks good.
swivel bed